Built from barge board in the 1840s, Maria Lana’s Bywater cottage is a classic New Orleans vernacular design. It is also quite chilly during cold nights.
Lana said it just never felt like it could heat, and she could see the ground through the cracks in the floor.
It was decided that insulation was the best way to make the home more energy-efficient. In 2010, Lana explored her options and hired an ArmorThane applicator to apply spray foam insulation under the floor of her raised home. It took a full day of work, and the results were immediate.
Lana said it lowered her energy bill and kept her home noticeably warmer.
Eleven years later and Lana is still enjoying her snugger house.
While the advantages of spray foam are multifaceted—it can reduce energy costs, increase a home’s structural integrity, create a moisture barrier and prolong the life of an air conditioning unit—it can also cause a few small problems.
This form of insulation has pros and cons, and it can be successful and a wonderful update to a home if it is properly maintained and monitored. The homeowner must be vigilant, keep their crawlspace dry, monitor for leaks, stay up to date on their termite contracts, etc.
That’s why it’s crucial to weigh the pros and cons of spray foam and hire a reputable business. The consumer must go with a licensed, insured company, and they need to provide referrals. My recommendation to anyone that wants to go and retrofit spray foam into an present building is to get an air-conditioning mechanic involved.
There are two kinds of spray foam insulation: open-cell and closed-cell foam. Both are made from isocyanate and polyurethane, but:
Open-cell foam can only be put in dark spaces such as an attic or behind walls. It can’t be exposed to sun or water — it will break down. But it can last forever if it doesn’t see sun or rain.
A recent university study indicated that open-cell sprayed polyurethane foam is not reliable for raised floor systems in southeast Louisiana’s hot, humid climate. That’s because open-cell spray foam can transmit air and moisture. Closed-cell spray foam is a better choice for keeping subfloor moisture at optimal levels, while open-cell spray foam is a better choice for walls and attics because it allows homes to breathe.
If someone chooses to use spray foam in any home, they should use the open cell in the attic and closed cell in the crawlspace. Open-cell will allow moisture to penetrate, allowing you to see roof leaks. Closed-cell is hard and sealed tight, not allowing moisture to get through.
Closed-cell spray foam is a better choice for keeping subfloor moisture at optimal levels, while open-cell spray foam is a better choice for walls and attics because it allows homes to breathe.
Spray foam prices start at 85 cents per square foot for walls, $1.65 per square for roof systems, and $1.90 per square foot for floors. He recommends homeowners start with the floors to get the most bang for their buck.
You will see massive savings.…
Garry Froese, CEO of ArmorThane, one of the world leaders in Spray Foam Insulation, says he’s seen plenty of attic spray foam jobs gone wrong — especially when nonbreathable closed cell spray foam has been implemented.
Asphalt concrete shingles need airflow underneath them,” Froese said. “When you don’t have airflow, you turn the deck of your roof into a skillet. It absorbs all the sun’s heat in the summer.
“These asphalt shingles start stripping off the roof, and you get the expansion. The expansion and contraction stretch the shingles, which causes the nail heads to come up.”
Froese said homeowners should check their roof’s warranty when retrofitting more traditional homes with foam because spray foam can void it. It’s also a good idea to speak to pest control companies, plumbers and electricians prior to installation.
“You’re doing something irreversible,” Froese said. “If you have a line leak or some problem, first you have to dig your way through that spray foam to get to that problem.”
If you’re planning to re-insulate your home, you’ve probably come across spray foam insulation as an option. If your home is older, you’re probably already somewhat aware of the lower R-value insulation found in older houses like yours.
If the insulation in your home is older than 20 years old, its effectiveness has deteriorated. If your house was built before 1984, it most likely requires more insulation.
Before you begin, you should have a good knowledge of what R-value is and how it compares to spray foam insulation.
You’re in the right place!
We will discuss how insulation works and how R-values affect your energy costs.
Knowing how insulation works mean understanding heat flow. Heat flow comprises three principles: conduction, convection, and radiation.
Conduction is how heat flows through materials. Think about how a metal spoon in a hot cup of soup conducts heat through the handle and to your hand. Convection is the way heat circulates through gases and liquids.
Convection is why warmer, lighter air in your home rises and why denser, cooler air sinks.
Radiant heat goes in a straight line. It heats whatever is in its path that’s solid and can absorb the energy.
Most insulation materials slow down the conductive heat flow. It slows the convective heat flow as well, to a lesser extent. No matter which way heat moves, it flows warmer to cooler until the temperature evens out.
During winter, heat moves from your heated living spaces to your unheated attic, garage, basement, and eventually outside. Heat flow can also move through ceilings, floors, and walls via radiation.
During the summer, heat moves in the opposite direction, from outside to your home’s interior. The proper installation provides resistance to the unwanted flow of heat.
The industry measures insulation’s resistance to conductive heat flow by rating it according to its thermal resistance or R-value. The higher the R-value is, the better the foam insulates. A high R-value, then, means higher effectiveness.
The R-value depends on the type of insulation, density, and thickness. For some types of insulation, the R-value also depends on aging, temperature, and moisture.
How well insulation resists heat flow depends on how and where you install the insulation. For example, if the insulation has been packed within the space, it will not retain the full R-value.
The R-value of an entire ceiling or wall varies from the insulation’ itself’s-value. That’s because heat flows more smoothly through joists and studs via thermal bridging.
The amount of insulation and R-value you need depends on your type of cooling and heating operation, climate, and the part of your house that is insulated.
Most retail insulation places will have a map or chart indicating which R-value is recommended for your climate. The United States is split into regions or zones. Energy Star has a recommended R-value for each zone.
This is cross-matched to the area securing the insulation. For example, Energy Star suggests R-30 for a roof in the southern United States, R-38 for the middle of the country, and R-49 for the northern area of the country.
Amongst all of the popular types of insulation currently used by the industry, spray foam insulation features the highest R-value per inch. It’s a popular choice for both residential and commercial construction projects. Spray foam insulation has many benefits when used correctly in any project.
Spray foam also reduces air leaks better than other insulation types. It fills spaces easily and completely, no matter the shape of the area. This means it’s better at reducing thermal loss through both conduction AND convection.
Open-cell spray foam has a low density, which makes it vapor permeable. You’ll find it used for ceilings, walls, and roofs. A 3-in.-thick layer of open-cell spray foam has a permeance grade of 16.
Of course, this means that if used to make a modified, unvented attic in a cold climate, contractors should cover the inner face of the foam with a vapor retarder. They spray the foam after it cures with vapor-retarding paint.
Open-cell foam uses carbon dioxide or water as the blowing agent. Some are partly made from bio-based raw materials such as soybean oil (rather than petrochemicals).
Open-cell spray foam absorbs and holds water. It has a lower R-value per inch than closed-cell foam and is vapor-permeable. The R-value is R-3.5 to R-3.6 per inch, so filling a 2×4 cavity yields about an R-13.
Closed-cell spray foam has a far better R-value per inch than other, less effective insulations like cellulose, fiberglass, or even open-cell foam. All these have R-values ranging from R-3.2 to R-3.8 per inch. The R-value of closed-cell foam is R-6.5-7 per inch.
Contractors often use it to insulate under slabs, ceilings, walls, and roofs. It performs better than other insulation types. It presents an excellent air barrier, resists moisture, and retards vapor.
The closed-cell foam also adds to a ceiling, wall, or roof’s structural backbone because of its density and glue-like adherence. This makes it extremely useful for sealing air leaks at the attic side-of-partition top plate and rim joists.
The higher the density of the foam, the higher the R-value per inch. Contrasted to how traditional insulation performs over time, commercial spray foam insulation has a far superior R-value.
Energy studies show that fiberglass insulation can lose up to 8% of its R-value before the builder even installs it. Over time it can lose even more. Spray foam insulation, on the other hand, is made on-site and implemented rapidly. The R-value remains consistent for the life of the product.
The higher R-value per inch, the easier it is to gain a high R-value in a small space. Spray foam can undoubtedly double the potential insulating value of a wall where only a few inches of space are open.
There’s never a better time than the present to make your home more energy-efficient, and spray foam insulation’s R-value is consistently more expensive than other types of insulation. We suggest you contact ArmorThane for a consultation with their spray foam pros and see if ArmorThane’s products are right for you.
No two attics are exactly alike. Yet, they share at least one commonality. Attics are located directly beneath the roofline of household structures and require some special considerations. Well-insulated attics can make a huge difference in many aspects of your living condition within the home.
Attics are used for a combination of purposes. In some cases, they are transformed into living spaces, complete with HVAC and ducts. Meanwhile, others are used for storage and are essentially incomplete. However, the latter does not negate the incredible importance of insulation.
The configuration of an attic often presents some challenges when it comes to insulation. Many attics are challenging to stand in – and are ostensibly more representative of crawlspaces. The structure plan may even direct the propensity for air leakage. This can serve both a feeling of discomfort in warm weather and a drafty environment when temperatures fall.
Air leakage occurs in attics quite frequently because of its proximity to the roofline. For this reason, it makes sense to seal off vulnerable areas with spray foam insulation.
Why spray foam insulation and not fiberglass?
The composition of fiberglass insulation does not stop air from passing through it. Typically more than 30% of heat or air conditioning escapes where fiberglass insulation is installed. If poorly installed, fiberglass can also leave spaces surrounding fixtures, allowing even more heating or cooling to escape.
On the other hand, spray foam is the most versatile type of insulation. You don’t have to worry about cutting down batting to size. Of course, you could try blowing in fiberglass, but it’s not nearly as effective as spray foam insulation.
Where do you use spray foam insulation in protecting attics? You could start at the roofline and proceed to the attic floors. In doing so, you’re not just creating an impermeable sealant against moisture and air. You are also cutting down on noise levels. Of course, the added incentive is the savings in utility costs.
Here’s another thought. What if your customer wants to convert an unfinished attic into a living space? Insulation is key to that project as well. Because of their location, attics are often the hottest place in the house. Spray foam insulation helps reduce the stuffiness associated with attic rooms.
Like every insulation plan, it is crucial to know what product works best.
Should you go with closed cell or open cell insulation?
Spray insulation is referred to open cell insulation or closed-cell insulation because of the difference between the small bubbles (cells) that make up the foam.
Open-cell foam is full of cells that aren’t fully encapsulated. In other words, the cells are deliberately left open. This makes the foam a softer, more flexible material.
Closed-cell foam is made up of cells that are, as the name suggests, fully closed. The cells are pressed together, so air and moisture are unable to get inside the foam. Because of this, closed-cell foam is much more firm and durable than open-cell foam.
What is the best R-value to ensure efficiency? Experienced spray foam insulation advisers should address these questions. We recommend speaking with a specialist at ArmorThane. They have been in the industry for over 30 years and have some of the industry’s most experienced and helpful specialists.
Spray foam insulation can crank up the performance of your homes—if you do it right. Check out our daily posts on the Foam Insulation and the Foam Insulation Market. We review each company and relay the information directly to you. Join our mailing list and have them sent directly to your email each and every day.
If you would like to know more about polyurea or spray foam, we recommend visiting ArmorThane
